Rainwater Harvesting: HES, thinking globally and acting locally.
Posted by Margot on December 20, 2011 | No Comments
There’s something immensely satisfying about responding proactively to environmental problems, especially when your actions save money, are simple to implement and reduce your dependence on municipal services. In the face of water scarcity and increased water rates by as much as 50% in some localities, why pay for water that has been tanked treated and piped to your home so that you have access to safe drinking water, when much of that water flows into washing machines, hosepipes and toilets? The high level of contaminants found in drinking water is another reason for the current popularity of water harvesting. Rainwater is free and its essentially clean so why wastes it?
The technology is as simple as it is sensible and entails channeling rain water from roofs, via gutters and downpipes, into storage tanksplaced close to the house. It’s an ancient practice to which modernity has added screens, leaf beaters, water diverters, pumps, purification technologies and a wide range of choices in tank size, shape, color or composition.
For people with no access to piped municipal water, the decision to harvest rain water is an obvious one. But in the civilized, regulated first world, it is only worth doing if it genuinely benefits the planet, the pocket and the body. How much water does one save by using rain water for toilets and washing machines? Can it be used for vegetable gardens and for drinking water and if so is it better than municipal tap water? My research began with noting some essential facts about water:
• 80% of the earth’s surfaces is covered with water.
• 3% of is the earth’s water is fresh, and of this 3%, a whopping 75% is frozen.
• Less than 1% of all the water on the earth is available fresh water for drinking.
• If all the water on earth were in a gallon jug, the available drinking water would constitute one table spoon.
Ultimately all the water on earth dropped down from the sky as rain, ran over the earth in rivers or streams and collected in dams and seas.
En route over and through the ground, water dissolves chemicals and lands up at a pH of between 4.0 and 9.0 (below 7.2 is acid while above is alkaline). The lower the concentrations of acid-generating sulphur, nitrogen and carbon gases in the air (soxes, noxes and coxes) and the less contact with acid-generating substances in the ground, the less risk of the water becoming acidic. Acid water is corrosive and is able to dissolve and carry with it potentially toxic trace elements (PTEs). Water utilities use chemicals to adjust the pH of municipal water, to make it less corrosive, to help purify it (coagulation and precipitation then filtration), to adjust its hardness or softness and to disinfect it (chlorine, ozone, UV light). In spite of this process however a survey by the Ralph Nader group discovered excessive toxins in over 1500 municipal water supplies in the USA.
Water pollutants are divided into micro organisms, disinfectants, disinfectant by-products, organic chemicals and inorganic chemicals. BPA (bisphenol A) and phthalates from plastics do not even make it onto the contaminant list, although scientific evidence is gaining momentum that these products from common plastic polyvinyl chloride (PVC with a resin code of 3) and polycarbonate (7) cause hormone changes and contribute towards cancer, fetal abnormalities and reduced immunity. Nor do these pollutants appear among the approx 1000 chemicals on the updated PROP 65 list of chemicals known to cause cancer and reproductive abnormalities, published by the Office of Environmental Health Hazard Assessment in California.
Allegedly about 90% of the earth’s surface water is infected to varying degrees with parasites cryptosporidium and Giardia, bacteria E coli and salmonella and roto or polio viruses. Some also has nitrates from excessively fertilized soil. They are easily converted to nitrites which are decidedly unhealthy for a variety of reasons. The most worrying inorganic contaminants in water include excess aluminum, arsenic, asbestos, cadmium, chromium, copper, cyanide, fluoride, iron, lead, manganese, mercury, sulfate, thallium and zinc. Of 54 EPA listed organic pollutants the most harmful include alachlor, acryl amide, atrazine, benzene, benzopyrene, carbofuran, chlordane, carbon tetrachloride, chlorobenzene, dioxin, heptachlor, PCB’s (polychlorinated biphenols), toluene and vinyl chloride. Most of these stem from petroleum refineries, chemical factory discharge, leaching of landfills or pesticide residue. Any radioactive substances are clearly not a boon.
Even after treatment, some of these remain in concentrations regarded as too high for human health. Scientific evidence also steadily recommends reducing prescribed limits, so that when the permitted level of arsenic of 50 micrograms/litre, was shown to pose a risk of cancer, the EPA revised the levels. All municipal water has chlorine added, regarded as harmless enough in liquid form in approved amounts, but harmful as a gas (hence in hot water showers) or in combination with other chemicals resulting in toxic chlorine by-products. As effective as it is against most harmful waterborne diseases, chlorine has no impact on Cryptosporidium or Giardia, which may bypass poor filtration systems. Fluoride levels as high as 4mgs/L are approved although in 1994 a World Health Organization expert committee on fluoride use, stated that 1.0 mg/L should be an absolute upper limit. It is only during the formative stage of permanent teeth, between 6 months and 8 years of age, that systemic fluoride contributes to dental health. Thereafter its value is in topical application to teeth. Hence millions of tons of fluoride are unnecessarily ingested by people whose municipal water is fluoridated, with possibly detrimental effects on health.
The EPA provides a gold standard for water quality testing, and publishes on its website, an annual water quality report for every region of the USA with results of local water testing. Of the approx 75 000 toxic chemicals used in society the EPA has set MCLs (maximum contamination levels) for 87, based on their effect on a 175 lb adult. However each substance is tested separately, with no adjustment for accumulated effects or for the impact on children. The Ralph Nader Study Group‚ after reviewing over 10‚000 documents acquired through the Freedom of Information Act‚ maintained that U.S. drinking water contains more than 2100 toxic chemicals that can cause cancer.
All of this data makes harvesting one’s own rain water an attractive option. But how safe is the rainwater and what is it best used for?
I was first alerted to the value of rain water harvesting when I was stopped in my tracks by a 500 meter garden path in urban Newton (MA), lined by tomatoes, each like the tomato for T, on an ABC wall chart. It turned out they were watered with rain from a rainwater harvester and fed with seaweed. No pesticides allowed! This harvester was basic, with one collecting down pipe, a screen against insects and a hand tap that ran water into a hose or watering can.
But rainwater harvesting has its own risks. Lead based paints, tar based coatings, zinc in paint, acrylic painted roofs, fibrous cement roofs, galvanized iron, zincalume roofs, chemically treated timber and lead flashings should be nowhere along the collection stream, since all pose a risk of contaminating the water. Once the tank is installed, there should be monthly checking of gutters for vegetation and debris which can cause blocking and bacterial growth. Screens must be maintained to prevent mosquito larvae breeding and the tank may need occasional desludging, to remove sediment or algae.
The tank should be opaque, situated in the shade to prevent algae growth and it should be made from PET or polyethylene, (not one of the plastics that leeches chemicals into water, such as polyvinyl or poly carbonate), stainless steel, galvanized steel or fiberglass. If one’s house is in an industrial area, chances are the water will contain boxes soxes and coxes, be acidic and contain industrial chemical pollutants emitted from smoke stacks or drawn up in the vapor of any waters used as industrial waste dumps or close to landfill sites. It is advisable therefore to let the first flush of water from any rainfall wash away entirely, by installing water divertersinto the system.
The choice of tank is as wide as the application. The most basic waters the garden. With added reticulation through pumps and pipes, rain water can flush toilets, supply washing machines and showers or be used for drinking. Each stage requires further plumbing, pumping and monitoring. The cost also increases with each application and if used for drinking water, the method of purification is of paramount importance. As a rule of thumb, approx 150 gallons should be installed per person (this varies according to roof area and rainfall) and the cost could vary from 500 to 3000 dollars. The size of the barrel depends on how much water you use. On average one person consumes and uses 50 to 100 gallons per day and 600 gals soak 100 sq feet of garden. One inch of rainfall on a 1000 square foot roof (approx 3 garages) can capture 623 gallons of water. The average bath tub takes 41 gallons. If one goes to the trouble of harvesting rainwater; a 400 gallon drum seems a reasonable starting point with the potential to add drums as required. In MA where water costs every 400 gallons of rain water used saves ……………………… $ in water costs.
The first flush of rainwater after a dry season should be allowed to run to waste as it will be contaminated with dust, bird droppings etc. Roof gutters should have sufficient incline to avoid standing water. They must be strong enough, and large enough to carry peak flows. Storage tanks should be covered to prevent mosquito breeding and to reduce evaporation losses, contamination and algal growth. Rainwater harvesting systems require regular maintenance and cleaning to keep the system hygienic.
Installing a system for gardening needs no debate. Adding reticulation for toilets and washing machines makes sense if one can afford the cost. Harvesting rain water for an entire home water system is ideal if one is committed to maintenance and installs a full home water purifying system allowing for municipal back up when there is no rain.
For me, the ideal is to install a stainless steel or safe plastic rainwater tank which has a gutter mesh, to prevent leaves and debris from blocking gutters, gutter outlets that prevent obstruction to water flow, leaf beater rain heads on the downpipes to further prevent blocking and keep mosquitoes out of pipes that hold water, a water diverter to prevent the first flush of rainwater from entering the tank, a tank screen, flap valves and at some future date a pump system, rainwater filter and home water purification system.
Banding together with one’s neighbors and forming a roster for members of the co operative to take turns in having the rainwater tested, is a great way to share the load of finding local solutions.
We can live approximately 30 days without food but seldom more than 3 without water. The theory that water crystals respond to the mood you project onto them is difficult to swallow, but treating the earth and the water that flows on it with respect and love is the best way to make it not only healthy, but a sheer delight to swallow.
SAVE MONEY: SAVE ENERGY: USE TAX CREDITS
Posted by Margot on December 20, 2011 | No Comments
Tax credits for energy efficiency and for installing new green energy technology are making the right kind of energy usage a lot easier for home owners. Modern state of the art technology uses clean renewable resources, like sun, wind and hydrogen fuel cells, rather than polluting sources like coal and oil, but they usually cost more than conventional and we leave them on the shelves. Now, adding to the pleasure of reducing pollution is the bonus of tax cuts up to 30%, offered by the US government to offset the costs of going green.
With tax cuts reducing the initial outlay for improved technology, the pay back time is much shorter and there is every reason to become proactive in changing the way we use energy in our homes.
Tax cuts are offered for a range of proactive changes:
The changes involve reducing the amount of energy we consume for space heating or cooling, changing the way we heat water and cook food, making better use of the natural environment and producing electricity on our home turf.
1. Energy Efficient Space Heaters is the first and simplest step to take. It entails stopping air leaks from doors and windows, preventing heat loss and making best possible use of natural heat and coolth. 
2. Outdated HVAC systems chew electricity, so replacing these is a major energy saver.
3. Non-solar Energy Efficient water heating systems are easy to install.
4. Generating heat or electricity using alternative sources can take the form of
• Solar Water heating
• Heat pumps
• Photo voltaic systems
• Wind turbines
• Hydrogen fuel Cells
Tax credits apply to the following technologies and installations:
1. REPLACING DOORS WINDOWS AND SKYLIGHTS.
You can add or replace any number of windows, doors or skylights to your existing principal residence, provided they have an Energy Star efficiency rating.
Tax credit is 10% of the cost of the windows, up to $200 per window, and 10% of the cost of the replacement for doors and skylights, up to $500 per item, excluding installation costs.
2. INSULATION.
With insulation you loose less heat, therefore use less heat, and you require less cooling. Alone is can affect your bill by 30%. There’s a wide range of insulating materials varying in efficiency. Those eligible for tax credits require a Manufacturer’s Certification Statement. They include, rolls, batts, rigid boards, blow-in fibers, expanding spray, pour-in-place and air sealants, including weather stripping, spray foam, caulk and house wrap
Tax credit is 10% of the cost of the new insulation, up to $500, excluding labor or installation costs.
3. CHANGES TO HVAC OR OTHER HEATING AND COOLING UPGRADES
The bulk of your utility bill goes toward heating and cooling (approx 40%) therefore replacing or upgrading these systems will have a major impact on your home running costs.
• Energy Efficient House Fans & advanced main air circulating fan moves air through your furnace and duct system more efficiently.
Tax credit is $50.
• Air source heat pump moves air between the outside and inside of your home, from a cool space to warm, heating it in winter and cooling it in the summer. It’s more efficient than a regular HVAC system and costs far less.
Tax credit is $300, with specific energy efficiency ratings.
• Geothermal heat pumps use the ground for heating and cooling and are one of the most efficient mechanisms available.
Tax credit 30% of cost in any home except rentals.
• Central air conditioning systems with a tax efficient certification.
Tax credit $300.
• Hot water boiler propelled by gas, propane or oil, with a thermal efficiency of at least 90%.
Tax credit of $300 (includes installation costs).
• Biomass stoves, otherwise known as wood stoves burn biomass in the form of waste plant fibers and agricultural waste, wood and wood waste and residues (including wood pellets) and grasses. They are more efficient than old wood burning stoves and do not produce the toxic gases of the old ones.
Tax credit $300 on the cost of a new stove, provided it has a thermal efficiency rating of 75%.
4. SOLAR WATER HEATERS.
Water heating accounts for between 14% and 25% of the energy consumed in your home, hence installing a solar water heater that can be backed up with conventional power when there is insufficient sunlight will have a major impact on your bill. They work by siphoning water through a system of tubes mounted on the roof of your house and typically have a collecting and a storage component.
Tax credit is 30% of the solar system, which must be Energy Star, SRCC, or comparably rated by the relevant state. Installation costs and labor are included.
5. PHOTO VOLTAIC PANELS are a way of installing your own mini power station. The panels capture light energy from the sun and convert it into electricity, which is stored in a battery and then converted into the alternating current used for household appliances and lighting.
The initial outlay is expensive but with 30% tax credit, including installation costs, you have the luxury of being independent of energy utilities. Photovoltaic systems must provide electricity for existing or new, principal or secondary residence, and must meet applicable fire and electrical code requirement.
Mini transportable PV panel systems that provide one or two LED lights and power for a mobile phone, TV or lap top are fabulous for campers or hikers. No danger of candles; no smell of kerosene; only sunlight captured by day and used at night. These are stand alone items that do not earn tax credits.
6. WIND TURBINES
The old wind mill, picturesque symbol of farms and fairy tales, has been upgraded to the modern wind turbine, which offers an ideal way to generate your own electricity and reduce your bills. The turbine collects kinetic energy from the wind and converts it to electricity that is compatible with a home’s electrical system.
The tax credit is 30% of the cost of the system (including parts, labor and installation costs), provided the nameplate capacity is not more than 100 kilowatts. It applies to new or existing, primary or secondary residence.
7. RESIDENTIAL HYDROGEN FUEL CELLS and Micro turbine Systems convert chemical energy into electricity. They use hydrogen from natural gas converting it into electricity and producing water as a by product. Fuel cells systems can be expensive to install depending on the application and they do require refilling with natural gas.
The tax credit for installing it in your primary residence is 30% of the cost, up to $500 per 0.5 kilowatt of power generating capacity. It applies to new and existing homes System must have efficiency of at least 30% and a capacity of at least 0.5 kW.
By integrating a range of solutions & energy conservation kits one can have a home that costs the barest minimum to run, since once installed, the items require mostly natural energy sources. A hybrid energy system involves a combination of technologies, if need be backed up by the utility. A SMART metering system could be controlled by a computer to maximize efficiency and select the appropriate technology at any one time.
The future of energy is now. It’s clean, it’s exciting and it’s getting a whole lot cheaper with government support.
Energy Saving Showerheads – Why a Low Flow Showerhead Saves Money
Posted by Margot on December 20, 2011 | No Comments
Are you considering energy saving showerheads? That’s a good idea. What many home owners don’t realize is that heating water is the second largest consumer of energy in the home, after heating the house itself. The daily hot shower that we take consumes an amazing amount of hot water. This doesn’t mean you have to stop washing yourself or take shorter showers, but it does mean you should look into a low-flow showerhead. This just means that the showerhead is more efficient. You barely notice a difference, and yet you save lots of money on your energy bill.
A typical showerhead will burn through 2.5 to 3.5 gallons of hot water per minute. Compare this to a low-flow showerhead, which uses only 1.6 to 1.7 gallons per minute. This adds up to an immense amount of reduced water usage over the lifetime of the showerhead. These savings equate to save money & reduced CO2 emissions.
You might be wondering if a low-flow showerheads will feel like a fraction of a normal shower, like a trickle of water instead of a powerful stream. You need not worry, as the newer energy-saving showerheads share few similarities to its predecessors, from the 1970s and 1980s. Those older low-flow showerheads felt as if you were showering underneath a trickle of water. A current model use aerators and pressurizes to conserve water without the decrease in the force of the spray of water
Whether you’re interested in fixed showerheads or handheld showerheads, you can save money and energy with either. The price of a new showerhead will be made up quickly by the savings you will add up many times over after every single use. You can choose from a broad selection of wonderful, sleek, Eco-friendly, low-flow showerheads at site dedicated to lowering home energy costs, homeenergysaver.com
Air Purifiers for Your Home – Save Energy with an Eco-Friendly Air Cleaner
An Air Cleaner for your home can make a big difference in the quality of the air that you and your family breathe. Finding the right air purifier can save you loads of money, but there are many options to choose from. It’s important to know what to look for when thinking to buy an Eco-friendly air cleaner
People buy air cleaners to keep their rooms, homes, and offices allergen free and healthy. These amazing machines draw air in through dust and allergen air filters, trapping pollen, pet dander, bacteria, mold spores, dust mite debris, and smoke particles.
If you’re ready to purchase an energy efficient air cleaner, you should place it in an area of your house that you spend the most time in, or contains the highest amount of irritating allergens. If you spend a varied amount of time in several different rooms, then consider a portable unit that you can roll around from room to room.
You also should consider the capacity of a unit. Different room sizes require different purifier sizes. You don’t want to skimp on the size of the unit if you plan to use it in a room that’s larger than recommended. You should balance the size of the unit with the size of the room, to ensure you use the least amount of energy while keeping the air you breathe clean. A top-notch Air Cleaner will display filter status with LED indicators, will use a remote control, and will not emit ozone.
A great place to check out a top-recommended Air Cleaner is HomeEnergySaver.com, where you can find a great deal on an Eco-friendly home air cleaner.
New Feature Launches
Posted by Margot on November 23, 2010 | No Comments
Happy Holidays HomeEnergySavers!
Thanks to HomeEnergySavers like you, we are thrilled to announce that our site (and community) has been growing quickly, with more and more visitors each day. We’ve been building our site over the last months and are excited to show you what we’ve done!
Find a Contractor Feature
Check out our new “Find a Contractor” feature, where you can search a network of hundreds of accredited installers and contractors from around the country to find just the right person for your next green project.
HomeEnergySaver Challenges
What’s more fun than going green in your home? A little friendly competition! Now, you can challenge your friends with our new Challenge Box! Here’s how it works: Every couple of weeks we post a new challenge related to going green – e.g. we recently asked visitors to check their fridges’ temperatures – it seems obvious, but every degree makes a difference when it comes to energy (and money) saving. We keep it simple because we know that’s important for busy consumers like yourselves. Our FacebookConnect login makes it easy to join and complete the challenge…and to share your accomplishment with your friends via an automatic post to your news feed. We know you like going green, but who doesn’t like a prize to up the anti? Each challenge comes with a prize that is unlocked when enough people have completed the challenge. So go ahead, get your friends involved.
What do you think? Have other ideas? Leave a comment or email us at customercare@homeenergysaver.com and let us know!
Making Green $imple,
The HomeEnergySaver.com Team
HomeEnergySaver and Facebook Integration
Posted by Margot on June 22, 2010 | No Comments
If you would like to influence your friends and family to be more eco-friendly HomeEnergySaver enables you to use social networks to do so. Can peer pressure be used in a positive way? We believe that it can. We’re excited about the prospects for change through leveraging social networking for the greater, more environmentally responsible good. Read more…
HomeEnergySaver Conservation Kits
Posted by Margot on June 22, 2010 | No Comments
The idea behind our HomeEnergySaver conservation kits is that for under $50, you ought to be able to start upgrading your home’s energy efficiency and seeing results right away—no mess, no fuss, and no getting bogged down with too many choices.
We offer two basic concentrations: energy conservation and water conservation. Read more…
Pharox 300 Dimmable LED Bulb – A Lighting Breakthrough!
Posted by Margot on June 22, 2010 | No Comments
Pharox 300 Dimmable LED Bulb
Installing the Pharox 300 dimmable bulb is one of the best and simplest ways to become energy efficient. These bulbs are ideal eco-friendly and healthy replacements for traditional 60 Watt light bulbs. Read more…
Share on FacebookThe HomeEnergySaver Savings Calculator
Posted by Margot on June 22, 2010 | No Comments
Do you want to be more energy efficient but are uncertain which energy-efficient products will really save you money?
Going green is fashionable these days but complex. At HomeEnergySaver we clear up the confusion and help customers determine which are the right products for their budget and why. We help you to choose, buy, save and share your knowledge. Read more…
The Energy Efficiency Pyramid: a guide to saving energy & money
Posted by Margot on June 22, 2010 | No Comments
I found an excellent guide from Minnesota Power prioritizes how homeowners can achieve energy efficiency. It clearly explains the steps a homeowner should go through when making their home more energy efficient: The Energy Efficiency Pyramid.
Light Bulb Choices
Posted by Margot on May 16, 2010 | No Comments
You want to save energy. Where do you start? Well, the easiest and most cost-effective place to start is by replacing your conventional incandescent light bulbs with MUCH more energy-efficient CFL or LED light bulbs. The money you spend on the bulbs will be paid back by the money you save on your energy bills, in many cases within 3-6 months! Read more…
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